How to Graft Plants (A Complete Guide for Beginners and Growers)

Grafting is a method of joining two plants together so they grow as one. It’s used to improve fruit quality, save space, fix plant compatibility issues, and grow more than one variety on the same tree.

While grafting may seem complicated at first, it’s a skill that many home gardeners and growers can learn with the right knowledge and tools.

In this article, you'll find everything you need to get started with grafting.

You'll learn when to graft, how to choose the right method for your plant, how to do it safely, and how to care for your grafts after the job is done.

Whether you're working with fruit trees, vegetables, or even succulents, this guide will help you do it the right way from the beginning.

What does grafting mean in plants?

Grafting is a method of connecting parts from two plants, allowing them to grow together as a single plant.

The upper part, called the scion, is the plant you want to grow — usually chosen for its fruit, flower, or other desired traits.

The lower part, called the rootstock or understock, is the plant that provides the root system and sometimes the trunk. When done correctly, the tissues of both parts grow together and form a single plant.

The key to successful grafting is making sure the cambium layers of the scion and rootstock align. The cambium is the thin layer of cells just under the bark that carries nutrients and supports new growth.

Once these layers connect, the graft can heal and begin to grow as one unit. The success of a graft also depends on the method used, the condition of the plant parts, and the timing.

Why do gardeners graft plants?

People graft plants for several practical reasons.

Stronger, More Resilient Plants

One of the main goals is to combine the strengths of two plants into one.

For example, if you have a scion from a fruit tree that produces great-tasting apples but is weak against soil disease, you can graft it onto a strong, disease-resistant rootstock.

This way, you get the fruit you want with a more reliable base.

Faster Growth and More Fruit

Grafting also saves time compared to growing plants from seed, especially for fruit trees.

A grafted plant usually grows and produces faster than one grown from scratch. It’s also a useful way to control the size of a tree.

Some rootstocks are naturally smaller and can limit how tall or wide a tree grows, which is helpful in small gardens.

Growing Different Varieties on One Tree

In some cases, grafting is used to grow multiple varieties on a single plant. You can graft several types of apples onto one tree or different flower colors onto one rose-of-Sharon.

This saves space and adds variety without planting more trees.

Helping Plants Grow Better Together

Another reason gardeners graft is to fix compatibility problems.

Some plant types don’t grow well together, or a certain variety might not thrive in your soil.

In those situations, you can use an interstock (a third plant piece between the scion and rootstock) to help them work together.

Overall, grafting is about getting better results: stronger plants, tastier fruit, less space used, and more control over how and where your plants grow.

What’s the best time to graft?

Timing is one of the most important parts of successful grafting.

Most grafting is done in early spring when the plant is just beginning to grow after winter dormancy. This is when sap flow is active, which helps the graft heal and take hold.

One key sign that it’s the right time to graft is when the bark on the rootstock “slips.” That means the bark separates easily from the wood underneath when you press or peel it slightly.

This condition makes it easier to insert the scion, especially in bark grafting, and it helps the two parts bond properly.

For most trees, this happens just as the buds begin to swell but before full leaf-out. The exact timing can vary depending on your region and the type of plant, so it’s important to observe your plants closely each season.

Grafting too early, when the plant is still dormant, or too late, when growth is already in full swing, can reduce the chance of success.

What tools and materials do you need?

Grafting doesn’t require a lot of equipment, but using the right tools makes the job easier and safer.

• Grafting knife (for making precise cuts)
• Grafting tape (to secure and protect the graft)
• Budding strips (rubber or plastic for flexible wrapping)
• Grafting wax or sealant (to prevent moisture loss)
• Pruners or shears (for trimming scions and rootstock)
• Grafting tool (optional, for making uniform cuts)
• Small nails or tacks (for securing grafts in bark grafting)
• Parafilm or plastic wrap (for sealing grafts)

Getting Ready to Graft Safely

1. Picking the right scion and rootstock

Choosing the right scion and rootstock is just as important as how you graft. These two parts need to be compatible so they can grow together and support each other.

Most successful grafts happen between plants in the same species or closely related ones. For example, apple scions work best with apple rootstocks, while tomatoes can be grafted onto certain other plants in the same family, like potatoes.

The scion should come from a healthy plant that showed good growth and fruiting the year before.

It should be about the thickness of a pencil, especially for most grafting methods, and it’s best if it’s collected while the plant is still dormant, then stored cool until you're ready to graft.

Your rootstock should also be in good shape. It needs a solid root system and should be free from disease or damage.

Some rootstocks are chosen for special traits like disease resistance, dwarf growth, or toughness in poor soil.

In some cases, you might run into compatibility issues between the scion and rootstock. That’s where an interstock can help — it acts as a middle piece between the two to help them grow together properly or even change the trunk structure if needed.

Taking time to select healthy, compatible plant parts gives your graft the best chance of success and a stronger plant in the long run.

2. How to cut safely

Grafting involves using sharp tools, so safety should always come first. One of the basic rules is to cut away from your body whenever possible.

This reduces the risk of slipping and cutting yourself, especially when you’re working on small or detailed cuts.

Another useful safety tip is to use a finger or bone block. This is a small piece of wood or plastic placed behind the cutting area to stop the knife if it slips.

It’s a simple way to protect your hand and limit how far the blade can go. Even experienced grafters use blocks like this to avoid injury.

Make sure your tools are sharp and well-maintained. A dull knife is more likely to slip or crush the plant tissue, and it takes more force to cut, which increases the chance of an accident.

Always focus on what you're doing, and take your time — rushing through cuts leads to mistakes and injuries.

Working safely not only protects you but also helps you make cleaner cuts, which is key to a successful graft.

3. Where to learn better grafting techniques

If you're new to grafting or want to improve your skills, learning from experienced grafters can make a big difference.

While books and written guides are helpful, seeing the process in action often makes it easier to understand the fine details, like how to hold the knife, how much pressure to use, and what a good cut should look like.

One practical option is to watch video tutorials. Some online channels, especially on YouTube, offer clear, step-by-step demonstrations.

A good example is the Skillcult channel, which shares detailed grafting videos based on hands-on experience.

These videos don’t just show the basic methods — they also cover what can go wrong and how to fix it, which is valuable when you’re learning.

Local workshops, garden clubs, or extension services may also offer hands-on training during the grafting season.

These events give you a chance to ask questions and get feedback while trying different methods in real time.

Learning from someone who’s done it before — whether online or in person — helps you avoid common mistakes and build confidence. Watching and practicing together is often the fastest way to improve your technique.

What Are the Common Ways to Graft Plants?

1. Bark Grafting

Bark grafting works well when the rootstock is much thicker than the scion.

It’s often used for fruit trees in early spring when the bark easily separates from the wood (known as “bark slipping”). This makes it easier to insert the scion without damaging the layers that need to connect.

To prepare the scion, make a long, smooth cut on one side so it sits flat against the wood. On the opposite side, make a short cut to create a wedge shape.

This helps it fit under the bark and touch the cambium layer, which is where the graft takes hold.

Once inserted, the scion can be secured with small nails or wrapped with flexible tape to hold it in place while it heals. If the bark holds tightly, wrapping may not even be needed.

Bark grafting is useful when working with large trunks or limbs and when changing the variety on an established tree.

It’s also a common method for topworking, where new varieties are grafted onto the branches of mature trees.

2. Side Grafting

Side grafting is used when the rootstock is one to two inches thick—too large for whip grafting but too small for bark or cleft grafting.

It works well for many woody plants and allows you to test new scion varieties without cutting back the whole tree.

A small angled cut is made on the side of the rootstock. The scion is cut to match so that its base sits flush along the cambium.

This angle helps the layers line up properly, which is key for a successful graft. Often, the cut holds the scion in place without wrapping, but if it's loose, a light tie or wrap can help.

Side grafting allows more control over where new growth appears and lets the rootstock continue supporting the plant as the graft heals. It’s great for adding new branches without removing large parts of the tree.

3. Cleft Grafting

Cleft grafting is useful when the rootstock is much thicker than the scion, like on older trees.

It’s usually done in late winter or early spring, just as the tree starts growing. This method helps new scions take over a section of the trunk or branch.

The rootstock is cut flat, then split down the middle to create a narrow opening. Each scion is cut into a wedge shape with two sloping sides so that the cambium lines up inside the split.

Usually, two scions are inserted, one on each side of the cleft, to increase the chances of success. The graft is then wrapped with tape or sealed with wax to prevent drying out.

If both scions grow well, one is usually removed after a year to focus the plant’s energy on the stronger one. Cleft grafting is a reliable way to topwork older trees and introduce new fruit varieties.

4. Four-flap (banana) Grafting

Four-flap grafting, or banana grafting, is often used for nut and fruit trees. It requires careful cutting but creates strong, well-connected grafts.

The name comes from the way the bark is peeled back in four strips, like peeling a banana.

To start, four vertical cuts are made in the bark of the rootstock, then the bark is peeled back. The scion is shaped with four matching cuts so it fits snugly against the trimmed wood.

The bark flaps are then folded back over the scion, and the graft is tightly wrapped with a rubber band or similar flexible material to hold everything in place.

This method works best when the scion and rootstock are close in size. Because it ensures full contact between the cambium layers on all sides, it has a high success rate.

However, it does require steady hands and careful work, so beginners may need practice.

How to Graft Large Trees Over Time

Grafting onto large, established trees is possible, but it takes more planning and patience than grafting younger plants.

When you're changing the variety or topworking an older tree, it's best not to graft all the limbs at once. Instead, work in stages over a couple of years to avoid stressing the tree and to help it heal properly.

A common approach is to graft about half of the branches during the first year and wait until the following season to do the rest.

This staggered method allows the tree to keep producing leaves and maintaining energy while the new grafts are healing.

If you graft all the limbs at once, the tree may not have enough active growth to support itself, which could weaken both the grafts and the tree overall.

Start with the upper center limbs when doing the first round of grafts. These branches tend to get the most sunlight, which helps support good growth in the new scions.

In the second year, you can move to the lower and outer limbs. By following this pattern, you're giving the grafts the best chance to succeed while keeping the tree balanced and healthy.

This method is especially useful when you're changing the variety of a mature fruit tree or reviving an older tree that still has a strong root system.

With careful timing and attention, even large trees can be successfully converted over time.

When to Use a Middle Piece (Interstock)

Sometimes the scion and rootstock you want to use aren't directly compatible. In these cases, you can use a third piece called an interstock, or interstem, which acts as a bridge between the two.

This middle piece is grafted onto the rootstock first, and once it's established, the scion is grafted onto the top of the interstock.

Interstocks can solve several problems. One of the most common reasons to use them is to deal with graft incompatibility — when a certain scion won’t take directly to a rootstock due to genetic differences.

By adding a compatible interstock in between, you create a link that allows the plant to grow as a whole.

They’re also used to influence how the plant grows. For example, in fruit trees, an interstock might be used to control tree size or add disease resistance without changing the root system.

In some grafting systems, the interstock becomes part of the trunk, especially when working with more complex or layered grafts.

While using an interstock adds an extra step, it can open up more options when you’re working with difficult plant combinations.

It allows you to get the benefits of both the desired fruit variety and a strong, adaptable rootstock — even if those two wouldn’t normally graft well on their own.

Can You Graft Soft Plants Like Tomatoes?

Grafting tomatoes, succulents, and more

While grafting is often linked to fruit trees and other woody plants, the technique also works with soft or herbaceous plants.

Tomatoes are one of the most common non-woody plants to be grafted, especially in areas where soilborne diseases are a problem.

The process is a little different from woody plant grafting. With tomatoes, both the scion and rootstock are young seedlings.

After cutting both stems at a matching angle, the scion is placed onto the rootstock and held in place with a small clip.

These grafts are delicate and need a healing chamber or humid environment for a few days to recover without stress or drying out.

Once healed, the plant can be transplanted into soil and grown like any other tomato plant.

Succulents can also be grafted, particularly when you're working with slow-growing species or trying to rescue damaged plants.

The main goal in succulent grafting is to line up the vascular rings at the center of the cut surfaces. With good contact and proper care, the grafts usually take quickly.

This method is often used in cactus growing to combine colorful tops with stronger root systems.

Grafting soft plants takes more care and gentler handling, but it follows the same basic principle: matching living tissues so they grow together as one.

Grafting watermelon onto pumpkin

In some regions, especially those with heavy disease pressure, grafting watermelon onto pumpkin rootstock has become a practical solution for growers.

Both plants are members of the same family, which makes them compatible for grafting.

The pumpkin rootstock offers resistance to soilborne diseases that typically weaken watermelon vines, such as fusarium wilt or nematodes.

This technique is popular in commercial farming, but it can also be done at a smaller scale. Similar to tomato grafting, both the watermelon scion and pumpkin rootstock need to be young and healthy.

There are a few different grafting styles used here, including the one-cotyledon method, where one seed leaf is kept on the rootstock to support early growth.

Once grafted, the plant needs to be kept in a warm, humid place until the cut heals and the tissues bond. After recovery, the plant is hardened off and moved to its final growing spot.

With proper care, the grafted plant grows like a regular watermelon vine, but with stronger roots and better disease protection.

What is a TomTato?

The TomTato is a plant made by joining a tomato plant with a potato plant. The top part grows tomatoes, while the roots grow potatoes, all from the same plant.

Tomatoes and potatoes come from the same family (nightshade), so they can be joined through grafting.

This doesn’t happen naturally and isn’t a new type of seed or a mix of the two plants. It’s done by cutting and joining young plants so they heal together.

Some people like the idea of growing two crops in one space, but there are downsides. The tomatoes might not taste as good as ones from a regular tomato plant since the potato roots can affect their growth.

Still, it’s an interesting way to try grafting at home and see how plants can be combined in different ways.

Grafting for Variety and Space-Saving

How to grow different fruits on one tree

One of the practical and creative uses of grafting is combining several varieties onto a single tree. This method, sometimes called multi-grafting, is often used with fruit trees like apples, pears, plums, and even citrus.

By grafting multiple scions onto one rootstock, you can grow different fruit types or varieties on the same tree without planting separate trees for each one.

This approach is especially useful in small gardens where space is limited. For example, instead of planting four apple trees, you can graft four different apple varieties onto one tree.

Each grafted branch will grow and produce its own type of apple. The same technique can be used for ornamental plants — like adding different flower colors to a single rose-of-Sharon shrub.

When choosing scions, it’s important to pick varieties that are compatible with the rootstock and with each other.

Growth rates should be similar, or one branch may outgrow the others and dominate the tree. Careful pruning over time can help keep the tree balanced and ensure that each grafted variety stays healthy.

Grafting multiple varieties onto one plant gives you more diversity without using more ground space, and it can extend the harvest season since different varieties often ripen at different times.

Grafting to save money and space

Grafting doesn’t just give you variety — it can also save you time, money, and garden space.

Instead of buying and planting multiple trees or plants, you can use one strong rootstock and graft several scions onto it. This means fewer holes to dig, less soil preparation, and a more efficient use of your garden or orchard area.

Some growers even graft two productive scions onto the same plant to create a plant with “two heads.”

This is common in situations where space is tight but high yield is still a goal. The root system supports both scions, allowing you to get more growth and harvest from a single rootstock.

This method is also useful when testing new varieties. Rather than planting an entire tree to try out a new apple or plum, you can graft one branch onto an existing tree.

If it grows well and produces good fruit, you know it’s worth planting more later.

By using grafting to multiply the output of one plant, you not only cut down on costs, but also make better use of your space, especially if you're working with limited land or raised beds.

Don’t forget about pollination

When you're grafting fruit trees, especially if you're combining different varieties on one tree, it's important to think about pollination.

Many fruit trees, like apples and pears, aren't self-pollinating. This means they need pollen from a different, compatible variety nearby in order to produce fruit.

Even if you’ve grafted several varieties onto one tree, they may still need pollen from another tree in the area.

The key is making sure that at least two compatible varieties bloom at the same time. If they bloom too far apart, they won’t be able to pollinate each other, and fruit production will be low or may not happen at all.

For small gardens, having a multi-grafted tree with overlapping bloom times can help solve the problem.

But if your grafted tree is the only one of its kind around, and none of the varieties are self-fertile, you’ll need another tree nearby to support pollination. Bees and other pollinators play a major role here, so keeping your garden friendly to them can also help.

It’s easy to focus on grafting technique and plant health, but without proper pollination, even a well-grafted tree may not produce the results you're hoping for.

Keeping this in mind when choosing scions can save time and prevent frustration down the line.

Grow stronger, healthier, and more productive plants through grafting!

Grafting is a valuable tool for gardeners and growers who want more control over what and how they grow.

Whether you're trying to improve disease resistance, grow multiple varieties on one tree, save space, or simply experiment with different plant combinations, grafting offers practical ways to do it.

Each method — from bark grafting to cleft grafting, side grafting, and even soft plant grafts like tomatoes — serves a different purpose depending on the size of the plant and the goal.

Timing is also critical. Grafting at the right moment, when the sap is flowing and the bark slips, gives your plants the best chance to take.

Whether you’re working with fruit trees, vegetables, or ornamentals, grafting lets you make more from what you already have — without needing more space or more plants.

With patience and practice, you can shape your garden or orchard to fit your needs and grow healthier, more productive plants.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Can I graft at any time of year?

No, grafting should be done when the plant is actively growing, usually in early spring. The best time is when the bark slips easily from the wood, which means sap is flowing and healing can begin right away.

How do I know if my graft worked?

If the scion stays green and begins to grow new leaves or shoots after a few weeks, it's a good sign the graft was successful. A failed graft often turns brown or dries out.

What kinds of plants can’t be grafted?

Plants that are too distantly related won’t graft successfully. For example, you can’t graft a tomato onto an apple tree. Even within the same family, some combinations might not take due to genetic incompatibility.

Do grafted plants fruit sooner?

In many cases, yes. Grafted plants, especially fruit trees, often produce fruit faster than plants grown from seed. The scion already has the maturity of the parent plant, which helps shorten the time to production.

Is grafting better than starting from seeds?

It depends on your goal. Grafting gives you more control over plant traits, offers quicker results, and can solve problems like disease or poor soil. Seeds are easier to start, but grafting offers benefits that seeds alone can't match.