Raising Quails: Beginner’s Guide to Quail Care, Housing & Feeding

Raising quails might not be the first thing folks think of when they talk about backyard birds, but let me tell you – they’ve got a lot going for them.

They don’t take up much space, grow fast, lay eggs like champs, and they’re quieter than chickens. But just like any animal, they’ve got their own needs and quirks.

This guide lays it all out in plain terms – what they eat, how much space they really need, how to keep them safe, and what kind of housing works best.

We’ll also go over health, behavior, and breeding so you’re not caught off guard.

Whether you’re raising quail for eggs, meat, or just because you enjoy having birds around, you’ll find everything you need to know right here.

Why Raise Quails?

Quails are one of the most practical birds you can raise, especially if you’re working with limited space or just starting out with poultry.

They grow fast, mature in about six weeks, and start laying eggs shortly after that. You won’t find many other birds that productive in such a short time.

Another thing folks like about quail is how quiet they are. Roosters crow all day, but male quail make more of a soft, whistling sound that won’t get you in trouble with the neighbors. That makes them a good fit for smaller properties or even urban backyards.

Eggs are a big reason people get into quail. Their eggs are small but rich in nutrients and flavor. If you raise enough birds, you can also get a good bit of meat out of them too. One quail makes a nice single serving.

All in all, quail are low-maintenance, fast-growing, and productive birds that don’t ask for much. If you want eggs or meat without a lot of noise or space, they’re worth considering.

Choosing the Right Quail Breed

Not all quail are the same. Some are better for eggs, some for meat, and others are mostly kept for looks or as pets. Picking the right breed depends on what you're after.

If you’re just getting started, Coturnix quail (also called Japanese quail) are the easiest to manage. They grow fast, lay a lot of eggs, and don’t need much space.

The jumbo Coturnix varieties are larger and better if you’re raising birds for meat. These are the most common choice for small farms and backyard setups because they’re hardy and not too fussy.

Bobwhite quail are a bit more high-strung and take longer to mature. They’re mainly used for hunting or game bird releases, but some folks raise them for meat too. Just know they need more space and can be harder to handle.

Button quail are the smallest and often kept as pets or for their looks. They’re not practical for egg or meat production, but they can be fun to have around if you’re just curious about quail in general.

Start with Coturnix if your goal is food or low-maintenance care. They're reliable, productive, and do well in captivity without a lot of hassle.

How Much Space Do Quails Need?

You’ll hear a lot of folks say one square foot per bird is enough, but that’s really just the bare minimum.

If you want your quail to stay healthy and act naturally, give them at least three square feet per bird, especially if they’re going to be on the ground.

Tight spaces make quail stressed, and that leads to fighting, feather picking, and poor egg production.

More room gives them space to move, scratch around, dust bathe, and stay active – which keeps them calmer and healthier.

If you’re raising them in a cage setup, it still helps to give more space than the minimum. And if you’re using ground pens or “quail tractors,” you can space them out even more and give them things to forage, which is how they naturally behave.

Giving them enough space from the start saves you a lot of problems later.

Designing the Ideal Quail Enclosure

Raising healthy quail starts with building the right kind of enclosure to keep them safe, comfortable, and able to do what quail naturally do – scratch, dust bathe, forage, and stay out of trouble.

Here's what to focus on when putting their space together.

Flight Safety Depends on Ceiling Height

Quail aren’t like chickens. When they get scared, they don’t just run – they launch straight up. If the ceiling in their pen isn’t built right, they can smash into it and hurt themselves, sometimes fatally. You’ve got two safe choices when building the roof:

• Keep it low—under 18 inches—so they can’t get any real lift.
• Or go high—over 6 feet—so they have room to fly without crashing into a hard surface.

Anything in between, like rabbit hutches or cages around 1.5 to 4 feet tall, is risky. These mid-height setups give them just enough room to build momentum but not enough space to land safely.

If you're not sure which way to go, stick with low ceilings for smaller setups and tall enclosures if you’ve got more room to work with.

Add Natural Enrichment for Healthier Birds

Quail do better when their space feels a bit wild. Even simple things like rocks, branches, hollow logs, or low shrubs give them something to peck at, climb over, or hide under.

These touches don’t just look nice – they help the birds stay active and less stressed. Bored birds tend to peck at each other, so enrichment cuts down on bad behavior.

If you can, rotate or rearrange items from time to time. Changing things up keeps them curious and engaged, even in smaller pens.

Use Ground Pens with Edible and Functional Plants

If you’re raising your birds on the ground instead of in wire-bottom cages, think about planting food and pest-control plants directly in the pen.

Quail enjoy nibbling on grains, berries, and greens, and giving them live plants encourages their natural foraging habits.

You can also grow herbs like wormwood, which helps repel pests like mites and flies. That’s especially helpful if you want to avoid using medications unless absolutely necessary. Just make sure any plant you grow in the pen is safe for quail – some common garden plants can be toxic.

Quail Tractors: Moveable Pens for Natural Living

A quail tractor is basically a lightweight pen you can move around your yard or garden. This lets your quail access fresh ground every day or so, where they can eat grass, bugs, and dig little holes for dust baths.

It also helps keep waste from piling up in one spot, which makes cleanup easier and reduces smell. Make sure the tractor has secure sides and a top to keep predators out, especially if you’re moving it to open areas.

Shelter from Wind, Rain, and Cold

Quail are tougher than they look. They can handle cold temperatures, even below freezing, as long as they stay dry and out of the wind.

What really matters is ventilation without drafts. Stale air and moisture buildup can lead to respiratory problems, but too much airflow can chill them.

In really cold climates, use deep bedding like straw or wood shavings to help hold heat.

A heat lamp isn’t usually needed unless temperatures drop well below -30°C (-22°F), and even then, it needs to be used carefully to avoid fire hazards.

Give Them a Dust Bath Area

Quail rely on dust bathing to stay clean and keep parasites off their feathers. Set aside a dry area in the pen with loose dirt or sand.

If your soil stays damp, you can use a shallow box or tray with fine sand or wood ash. Some folks add herbs like lavender, rosemary, or neem powder to help repel bugs, but that’s optional.

Make sure the dust area stays dry – if it gets wet or clumps up, it won’t do them any good.

Build for Safety: “Idiot-Proof” Design

Quail aren’t the brightest birds. They can get stuck in feeder holes, fall asleep in water dishes, or wedge themselves in odd places. A good enclosure keeps them from hurting themselves by accident.

Use shallow dishes with rocks or marbles in their water containers to prevent drowning.

For feeders, choose ones with small openings so birds can eat but not climb inside. Cover or block off any gaps or corners where a bird might get trapped.

Taking the time to build a simple, safe setup from the start will save you from injuries, dead birds, and a lot of frustration down the line.

For more inspiration, check out our 10 Easy Quail Enclosure Ideas for Any Backyard.

Feeding Quails the Right Way

Feeding quail isn’t complicated, but they do have specific needs that are different from chickens. Getting their diet right makes a big difference in how well they grow, lay eggs, and stay healthy.

Start with a High-Protein Feed

Quail need more protein than most backyard birds, especially when they’re young. For chicks, go with a 30% protein crumble feed – something made for game birds usually fits the bill.

By the time they’re about six weeks old, you can switch them to a 20–25% protein feed to keep them laying well without overdoing it.

Avoid pellets. Their beaks are small, and crumble is easier for them to eat without choking or wasting feed.

Some folks prefer natural or non-GMO game bird feeds that include things like diatomaceous earth, which may help control internal parasites naturally.

Use Treats, but Don’t Overdo It

Quail enjoy a variety of treats, and a few extras now and then can be good for their health and behavior. A few options:

• Mealworms (dry or live): Good protein boost, but feed in moderation. Too much can cause health problems like weight gain or prolapse.
• Seeds and grains: Millet, rye, hemp seeds.
• Fresh greens and garden scraps: Lettuce, spinach, broccoli, peas, cucumbers.

Keep treats to 10% or less of their overall diet. Quail will fill up on snacks and skip their main feed if you overdo it.

Don’t Forget Grit and Calcium

Just like chickens, quail need grit to digest food properly. If they’re on wire floors or not getting natural ground access, you’ll need to provide grit separately.

If you’ve got laying hens, you also need to offer a calcium source like crushed oyster shells or dried, crushed eggshells. This keeps their eggs strong and helps prevent laying issues.

Offer grit and calcium in separate containers so the birds can take what they need.

Keeping Quails Healthy

A clean, well-managed setup goes a long way toward keeping quail disease-free.

Most health issues come down to poor hygiene, overcrowding, or stress. With a few basic habits and some attention to detail, you can avoid most problems before they start.

Keep the Coop Clean

Quail might be small, but they make a mess fast. Wet bedding, dirty feeders, and unclean water dishes are breeding grounds for disease.

• Spot clean daily – especially around waterers and feeders.
• Change out bedding weekly or sooner if it’s wet or smells strong.
• Rinse and scrub waterers and feed containers often.

This routine doesn’t take long if you stay on top of it, and it’s your best line of defense against most health problems.

Know the Common Diseases

Two of the most common quail diseases are Coccidiosis and Ulcerative Enteritis. Both spread fast in dirty or damp conditions and can wipe out birds quickly if you don’t catch it early.

Look out for:

• Lethargy or sleeping a lot
• Not eating or drinking
• Droopy heads or eyes
• Runny or bloody droppings
• Fluffed-up feathers for long periods

Most people keep medications on hand to treat these right away instead of using them preventively. The goal is to avoid needing meds at all by keeping the pen dry and clean.

Let Them Rest in Winter

When the days get shorter, quail naturally slow down or stop laying eggs. You might be tempted to install lights to keep the eggs coming, but it’s better to let them rest. Forcing egg production with artificial light can shorten their lifespan and cause stress-related problems.

Giving your hens a seasonal break helps them recover and stay productive longer over their lifetime.

Understanding Quail Behavior and Social Needs

Quail have their own way of doing things, and they don’t act like chickens or ducks. Understanding how they behave makes them easier to manage and keeps your flock healthier and less stressed.

Don’t Expect Them to Be Pets

Quail are naturally skittish and don’t like being handled. They’re not mean, just nervous. Some will tolerate your presence over time, especially if you move slow and stay quiet, but most won’t enjoy being picked up or petted.

If you’re looking for birds that’ll follow you around or sit on your lap, quail probably aren’t it. But if you give them what they need and leave them be, they’ll thrive.

Eggs Won’t Always Be in One Spot

Unlike chickens, quail don’t usually lay in nesting boxes. They’ll drop eggs wherever they feel safe – under a branch, next to a feeder, or in a corner of the pen.

If you have a covered area with some plant cover or bedding, they might start laying there regularly, but it’s not guaranteed.

Be ready to check around daily. Finding eggs can feel like a little hunt every morning.

Keep the Right Male-to-Female Ratio

If you plan to hatch your own eggs, you’ll need at least one male. But too many roosters in one pen causes stress, injuries, and worn-out hens. A good rule is one male for every 4 to 6 females. For jumbo quail, you can stretch that to up to 10 females per male.

If you’re not breeding, it’s fine to keep only females. They’ll still lay eggs just fine without a male around.

You’ll Need to Incubate Your Own Eggs

Don’t count on quail to hatch their own chicks. Most quail don’t go broody, and even if they do, they’re not reliable parents. If you want to raise chicks, you’ll need to collect the eggs and use an incubator.

Once they hatch, you’ll also need a brooder setup with a heat source, shallow water dishes, and a non-slip floor. It’s a bit of work up front, but it gives you full control over your flock.

Watch for Illness, But Don’t Panic Over Everything

Quail are good at hiding when they’re not feeling well. Any bird that stops eating, stands still all day, or has droopy eyes and feathers needs a closer look. But not every weird poop or odd behavior means something’s wrong.

For example:

• Foamy droppings in sexually active males can be normal.
• Loose poop might just mean the brooder is too warm or they ate too much green food.

Learning what’s normal for your flock helps you catch real problems early without stressing over every little change.

Set Your Quail Up for Success

Raising quail doesn’t have to be complicated, but it does take some planning and daily care.

Give them enough space, keep things clean, feed them right, and don’t expect them to act like chickens – and you’ll have a flock that stays healthy, productive, and low-maintenance.

Start with a hardy breed like Coturnix, build a safe and simple enclosure, and take the time to learn their habits.

Once you’ve got your setup dialed in, quail can be one of the easiest and most rewarding birds to raise in a backyard or homestead.

FAQs

1. How many quail should I start with as a beginner?

Start with 6 to 10 Coturnix quail. It’s enough to learn the ropes without being overwhelming, and they’ll give you a steady supply of eggs.

2. Can quail live with chickens or other poultry?

It’s not a good idea. Quail are smaller, more fragile, and can easily get picked on. They also have different feed and space needs. Keep them separate.

3. How long do quail live and lay eggs?

Most quail live around 2 to 3 years. They start laying at about 6 weeks and lay consistently for 12 to 18 months, depending on breed and care.

4. Do quail need heat in the winter?

Usually no. Quail handle cold well if they have dry bedding and no drafts. Only consider heat in extreme cold, and use it carefully.

5. What are the signs of a sick quail?

Watch for lethargy, droopy posture, loss of appetite, or runny droppings. Separate any sick bird right away and clean the pen to prevent spread.