3 DIY Methods to Make Ollas (Clay Pot Irrigation) for Your Garden

You know those garden hacks that actually make life easier? This is one of them.

Ollas – buried clay pots that slowly leak water into the soil – have been around for centuries. And they work absurdly well.

No electricity, no timers, no fancy setup. Just porous clay, a bit of water, and gravity doing its quiet thing underground.

There are a few solid ways to do it. Some quick and scrappy. Others more… artisan. You don’t need to be a potter – though if you are, there’s a method here with your name on it.

In this article, you’ll find three different ways to make your own olla irrigation system at home. Each one has its perks. Each one actually works.

If you’re curious about other watering methods, check out these types of garden irrigation ideas too.

Let’s get into it.

Method 1: Gluing Two Clay Pots Together

Some garden beds are just thirstier. Bigger roots, wider spacing, deeper soil. This is where the two-pot method shines.

By gluing two unglazed clay pots together, you’re creating a bigger underground reservoir. More water capacity. More reach. And because it sits deeper in the soil, the surrounding root zones get a steadier, longer-lasting soak.

It’s also solid if you don’t want to refill your ollas every day. (Honestly, who does?) This method holds more water and leaks it out slowly – exactly what you want when the weather turns stubbornly dry.

If you're dealing with a bed that dries out faster than you'd like or you’re just tired of hand-watering every second day – this is the method to try first.

Materials You’ll Need

Alright, here’s the gear list. You don’t need anything fancy, but a few specifics make a big difference:

• Two unglazed clay pots – Terracotta works great. Look for the classic reddish-brown ones with no shiny glaze. Anywhere from 4 to 12 inches wide is good. Make sure they’re porous.
  
• Sealant – Waterproof silicone is the favorite (sticks well, doesn’t crack with weather changes). But you can also use clay adhesive, mortar, moldable glue, tile adhesive, or even caulking. Just make sure it's waterproof and non-toxic.
  
• Something to plug the bottom hole – A flat rock, piece of cork, silicone blob, a shard of broken pot – whatever fits snugly.
  
• Cover for the top hole – Could be a clay saucer, plastic lid, big pebble – just something to keep bugs and debris out. Add weight if needed.
  
• Optional extras – Paper towel or rag (for cleaning or smoothing glue), a funnel for easy filling, and a dremel or drill if you want to widen the top hole later.

If you got all that, then you're set.

Step-by-Step Instructions

This part’s where the magic happens. Well – if you can call glue, clay, and a little patience magic.

Step 1: Seal the Drainage Hole

Pick one pot to be the bottom. Doesn't matter which, but if one fits better beneath the other, go with that.

Now seal that drainage hole completely. You’ve got options: silicone (highly recommended), mortar, clay paste, a snug cork, even a pebble set in glue.

If you’re using silicone, lay down a thick swirl like soft-serve ice cream so it overlaps the edges of the hole. Let it dry flat so the seal sets evenly.

Step 2: Clean the Rims

Dirt, dust, dried clay – get it all off. Wipe the rims of both pots with a dry rag or paper towel so nothing messes with the glue’s grip.

Step 3: Apply Sealant and Join the Pots

Run a generous bead of waterproof sealant around the rim of one pot. It should be thick—at least as fat as the rim itself. Press the second pot down on top, rim-to-rim, and twist slightly to settle it in.

If some sealant squishes out? Good. That means it’s sealing well. Use a rag-wrapped finger to smooth the bead around the joint.

Step 4: Let It Dry

Don’t rush this. Leave the glued pots alone for at least 24 hours (or whatever your sealant label says). Overnight in a dry spot usually works fine.

Step 5: Test for Leaks

Fill your new olla with water through the top. Set it upright, maybe leaning it against something stable, and give it an hour. Check the bottom and the rim where you joined them.

If you see beads of water (not just a damp surface) drain it, patch the leaks with more sealant, and test again.

Some people used to swear by hot glue. It works short-term but tends to crack after a season or two. Silicone holds up much better when temperatures swing.

Optional Modifications

You’ve got your olla glued, sealed, and tested. It’s technically done. But if you want to take it a step further, a couple small adjustments can make a big difference.

Widen the Top Hole (if it’s annoyingly small)

Some clay pots have narrow little top holes that make pouring water in a pain. If that’s the case, grab a dremel tool or ceramic drill bit and carefully widen it out. Go slow. You don’t want to crack anything after all that effort.

If drilling’s not your thing, no stress. A funnel with a long, skinny spout works just fine. I’ve seen people use old turkey basters too. Whatever gets the water in without soaking your shoes.

Add a Weight to the Lid

If your cover’s too light, a stiff breeze (or a curious squirrel) can knock it off. Drop a stone or chunk of brick on top. Nothing fancy. Just enough to keep it in place and keep out bugs, dirt, and sun.

Label or Paint the Lid

Totally optional – but if you’re installing multiple ollas across your beds, a little paint on the top can help mark them out. Just don’t paint the buried part – that ruins the porosity.

Method 2: Using a Single Clay Pot

Sometimes you just want simple.

No glue. No stacking. No alignment issues. Just take a single clay pot, seal the hole, and drop it in the soil. That’s it.

This method is perfect for smaller spaces – raised beds, potted plants, or areas where you just need a little extra moisture without overcomplicating things. It’s also fast. Like, you-can-build-it-during-a-coffee-break fast.

It holds less water than the double-pot version, sure but sometimes that’s all you need. And if you’ve got a few extra pots lying around, this is the no-brainer way to repurpose them.

Materials You’ll Need

Here’s what you’ll need. Honestly, it’s a pretty short list:

• One unglazed, porous clay pot – Terracotta again. Same deal: no shiny glaze, just that natural matte red.
  
• Sealant for the bottom hole – Waterproof silicone is the go-to, but any of the usual suspects work: mortar, tile adhesive, clay putty, moldable glue.
  
• A cover for the top – Big flat rock, a saucer, a random plastic lid—whatever you have that blocks sunlight and keeps stuff out.

That’s all. Three things, and you’re in business.

Step-by-Step Instructions

No complicated setup here. Just a basic seal-and-go operation.

Step 1: Seal the Drainage Hole

Flip the pot over. Fill that bottom hole with your chosen sealant. If you're using silicone, squeeze in enough to completely cover and overlap the edges of the hole. A solid bead works best.

You can also jam a small cork or rock in there first, then seal over it – that adds a little extra stability.

Step 2: Let It Dry

Yeah, yeah, obvious. But don’t skip this. Let the sealant cure fully. A full day is usually enough unless the package says otherwise.

Stick it somewhere level while it dries so the seal doesn’t shift or sag.

Step 3: Test for Leaks

Once it’s dry, fill the pot with water and wait a bit. Check underneath. If there’s even the smallest bead of water leaking out, dry it off and hit it with another layer of sealant. Let it cure again and retest.

That’s it. Once it holds water, it’s ready to bury.

Method 3: Making Ollas from Scratch (Pottery Method)

This one’s not for everyone. But if you’ve got clay, a wheel, and a kiln (or access to a studio) it opens up a whole different world.

You’re not limited by the shapes or sizes of store-bought pots. You can build exactly what your garden needs. Taller neck? Bigger belly? Narrow base to fit in tight rows? You can throw it how you want.

Also: pottery people tend to already have a feel for porosity, thickness, and what’ll work underground. So if you’re comfortable on a wheel, this method’s a great excuse to put those skills to work in the garden.

It takes more time, but the result is way more personal. And surprisingly durable.

Materials and Tools Needed

Here’s what you’ll want to gather:

• Unglazed, porous clay – No fancy additives. Just a basic, breathable clay body.
• Pottery wheel – Not required for hand-building, but it makes things faster and cleaner.
• Two bats – For throwing and aligning the top and bottom sections.
• Measuring tools – To make sure both rims match up.
• Needle tool and wire cutter – For trimming, cutting, and cleanup.
• Kiln – You’ll need to bisque fire it. No way around that.

Building the Olla

You’ve got two main paths here. Choose based on your skill, time, and how precise you want the shape.

Option 1: Throw a Single-Piece Bottle Form

This is the simpler route. Throw a closed bottle shape with a wide belly and a narrow neck.

The key is to leave the neck tall enough that it stays above ground once buried. Three inches high usually does it. The neck opening should be wide enough to pour into – somewhere around 1.5 inches across.

Once it’s thrown and dried to leather-hard, smooth it out and bisque fire it. Done.

Option 2: Throw Two Sections and Join Them

More work but better if you want a large-capacity olla that fits deep in the soil.

Here’s how to pull it off:

• Throw a bottom bowl first using 3–4 pounds of clay. Bevel the rim so it angles inward.
  
• Measure the rim diameter.
  
• Throw a matching top bowl, opening all the way to the bat. Bevel its rim outward, so the two fit snugly together.
  
• Let the bottom bowl firm up just a bit – enough to support weight.
  
• Flip the top bowl upside down, line up rim to rim, and press them together.
  
• Use fingers and a rib to smooth the seam. Make sure there’s no gap.
  
• Trim the top from the bat with a wire.
  
• Use the leftover clay collar to form the neck. Widen it first so you can smooth the inside seam. Then narrow it back down to your final size and height.
  

Yes, it sounds like a lot. But once you get the rhythm, it’s smooth.

Final Touches

Trim excess clay from the base, but don’t worry about a perfectly flat bottom. It’s getting buried anyway.

Let the whole piece dry slowly and evenly. Then bisque fire it in your kiln. That’s it.

No glaze. You want the clay porous. Just fire it once, pull it out, and it’s ready for the soil.

Grab a pot, seal it up, and let your garden start watering itself!

Three methods. One result: less time watering, more time letting your garden do its thing.

Whether you glue two pots together, seal up a single one, or throw your own from raw clay, DIY ollas just work. They’re low-tech, dirt cheap (sometimes literally), and weirdly satisfying to bury in a garden bed.

If you’re new to the idea, start simple. A single pot, sealed and buried, can already make a big difference.

If you’re feeling crafty (or stubbornly curious) try the two-pot setup. And if you’re a potter? Well, you’ve already got the tools to make something way better than store-bought.

There’s no wrong version. Just pick the one that fits your space, your tools, and your time.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

How deep should I bury an olla?

Bury it up to the neck – just leave the top fill hole exposed. For most pots, that means about 6 to 10 inches deep.

Can I add liquid fertilizer to the water?

Yes, but keep it mild. Compost tea or diluted liquid feeds work. Just don’t clog the pores with anything thick or gritty.

Do roots grow into the pot?

Sometimes. If the pot develops cracks or isn’t fully sealed, roots might sneak in. But in most cases, they just wrap around it closely.

Can I use glazed pots if I drill holes in them?

Not really. Glazed pots don’t let water seep through the walls. Even with drilled holes, they behave more like buckets than seepers.

How often do I need to refill an olla?

Depends on the weather, soil, and plant size. In hot weather, maybe every 2–3 days. Cooler temps or mulched beds? Could stretch to a week.